An avian veterinarian should always be consulted as soon as possible should your bird present health concerns. The list compiled below includes recommended products you should have easily accessibility, although their use requires fundamental education of their potential benefits and contra-indications and proper dosages. Should symptoms be alleviated with their use, we still strongly recommended that an avian veterinarian be consulted nonetheless as soon as possible. Here are 2 different reference books that we recommend you could add to your bird library.

First Aid For Birds: An Owner’s Guide to a Happy Healthy Pet  Julie Rach Mancini, Gary A. Gallerstein

Holistic Care for Birds: A Manual of Wellness and Healing David McCluggage, Pamela Leis Higdon

• Pet status file with weight monitoring chart
• First aid reference manual
• Emergency contact info for a specialized avian veterinarian, a reliable animal veterinarian with whom you have built a trustworthy relationship that can contact a specialized avian veterinarian for advice , an experienced handler or aviculturist
• A small cage or aquarium that can be adapted for use as an intensive care unit until a veterinarian can be consulted
• Scale  and scale perch for weight monitoring
• Restraint towel and Velcro strips
• Pen light- to monitor pupil dilation and for the monitoring of papilla of the choanal region
• 5 1/2  size Hemostats for the removal of blood feathers
• Ripley Miller leg band removal pliers (exclusively from L&M Bird leg bands for smaller Psittacine and hooked-billed species leg bands)
• Cutters for the removal of sturdier leg bands and potentially cage wire if entrapment arises.
• Sharp/blunt sharp scissors (to free birds that have caught leg or neck in rope toys….and bandage material
• Small battery operated  rotary-Dremel tool with white or light blue stone ( manicure Salon Shaper is the best for use on birds)
• Tweezers
• magnifier
• 5cc syringe
• 1 cc syringe
• Heating pad

• Transporter or Pet Carrier
• Hand sanitizer
• Hand feeding formula
• Fresh millet
• Nylon dog bone for the inspection of the oral cavity of a parrot, a small paper clip can be used for the inspection of a small cockatiel, lovebird or budgie sized bird.
• Bird or fish net for birds in flights suitable for the species size
• Roll of white paper towels ( to use in bottom of cage to monitor droppings)
• Coffee grinder (to grind formulated granules into formula for syringe feeding )
• Sample size bag of fresh food in case of emergency evacuation or hospitalization
• Oxyfresh Cleansing Gele’
• Sample bag –“Ziplock” style: to conserve feces samples and feathers with abnormalities(stress bars, off colors, damaged feather due to feather damaging behavior)
• Clamp and fixture for heating lamp
• Silver nitrate sticks (for bleeding nail only never apply on skin)
• Nail Safe Styptic powder (for use exclusively on nails)
• Misting-spray water bottle

Bandaging material

• Vet wrap roll
• Cosmetic wedges Latex free (used for Human application and blending of make-up)
• White bandage tape
• Steri-strip Skin closure ( Nexcare)
• Cotton tip applicators
• Thin sanitary pads individually wrapped for bandages
• Coffee stirrer plastic sticks  for splints

Water soluble ointments such as:

• Calendula Gel
• Oxyfresh  Pet Gel
• Aloe Vera 100 % pure gel

Other Ointments and Aids

• Hydrocortisone cream ( concentrated for young  or breeding birds)
• Hibitane® ointment

• Vitamin E gel
• Packets for sterile lubricant – or better yet a small vial of olive oil both for use topically on the cloaca for emergency treatment of egg retention
• Calcium Gluconate or liquid calcium (without sugar) for oral administration in case of egg retention (used ideally in conjunction with lubricant on the cloaca and an increased humidity in the immediate environment.
• Rehydrating solution such a Gastrolyte® oral rehydration salt or Pedialyte ® Freezer Pops.
• Liquid Aloe Vera gel ( drinkable Aloe see Parrot Life for therapeutic virtues)
• Camilia® for pain relief (“Boiron” single dose homeopathic medicine for teething babies)
• Living World Clay-Cal
• Activated charcoal  Digestive aid Art:B-2456
• Bentonite Clay paste Tube ( Argiletz)
• Bentonite – green clay powder ( Argiletz)
• “Traumeel” tablets ( Heel)
• Oculoheel® Heel homeopathic eye drop preparation
• Bismuth subsalicylate liquid ( Pepto Bismol®)
• Gentian violet 1 %
• Apple cider vinegar unpasteurized with “mother”
• Nutri-cal ® nutritional high calorie dietary supplement paste
• Grape fruit extract tablets
• Saline Nasal Spray
• Chamomile infusion bags

Additional items for the Aviculturist & Retail Bird Department

• Collection  jar 10% neutral Buffered Formalin ( in case something needs to be preserved for histopathological examination)
• Culturette (collection swab to be brought to your avian veterinarian for isolation of bacterial and fungal infection)
• Feeding tubes for crop washes of neonates ( Tyco health care Kendall Sovereign)

First the definition of Geophagia- The consumption of soil or clay for diet benefit

In the wild, parrots instinctively flock to clay licks. It is believed by many field researchers that birds do this to detoxify their digestive systems after consuming toxic plants or food sources…and to add missing nutrients to their diet.

Without a doubt, most of the avian community is aware of the geophagia activities of wild parrots at the Manu Cliffs in Peru. Several species of parrots, in addition to other animal species, have been observed consuming the clays at the well known Manu Cliff as well as clay licks found all over the world.  Several hypotheses have been proposed to explain the existence of geophagy. It is believed that clay consumption by the wild parrot population provides supplemental minerals such as calcium that may be lacking in the routine diet as well as providing the means to eliminate their digestive systems of dietary toxins.

How does Geophagia, or rather, the need for our Living World Clay-Cal fit in with our companion birds?

Well, New Living World Clay-Cal is a clay product that combines the detoxifying benefits of Bentonite Clay and charcoal with calcium for nutrient supplement.

One of the primary benefits of bentonite clay, specifically montmorillonite clay-with superior levels of cation exchange capacity (ability of absorb toxins), is its effect on countering dietary toxins by  binding mycotoxins or fungal toxins, endotoxins, manmade toxic chemicals and bacteria. Because of the clay’s ability to act as an antacid, Living World Clay-Cal can protect the gut lining from corrosion. This alone improves food intake as it protects the GI tract from chemical and biological irritation.  At HARI, our birds are regularly supplied with fresh tree branches for perching, chewing and shredding activities.  And while the wood source is perfectly safe, some of the tannins found in the wood bark can contain secondary compounds toxins. The Living World Clay-Cal helps our birds deal with these possible toxins found in the branches. Living World Clay-Cal elevated PH level plays a critical role in the bird’s ability to remain healthy and resist disease.

What other possible toxins are companion birds exposed to?

Well, there are multiple household chemicals that come from floors, carpets, cleansing agents for example. In addition, think about the possible pesticides and additives found on fresh fruits and vegetables.  How about genetically modified food items? Living World Clay-Cal won’t undo a down and out toxic exposure-but will help your birds deal with the casual exposure that often goes undetected in everyday life.

Let’s not forget the Calcium benefits as well. Living World Clay-Cal also supplements the calcium needs for healthy bone development. And, how about those chronic egg layers?  Typically, in the past, we’ve offered our companion birds, especially the passerines, grit, which has some calcium benefit. The negative aspect of grit includes crop impaction as the grit morsel does not break down. This is especially dangerous with birds displaying pica behavior. (Pica-overconsumption or craving for food or non-food item as a result of deficiency or undesirable internal condition). Living World Clay-Cal can be safely given to birds and pica behavior observations should be an indication to the avian caretaker to seek avian veterinarian advice.

For more information on how your birds can benefit from Living World Clay-Cal, click New Living World Clay-Cal. And, if you have questions, please feel free to ask us!

Living World Clay-Cal is not a substitute for proper avian medical advice.

Well, not really, if we’re talking about a HARI Fledgling! One of the most chronic ailments in many companion birds is dealing with overweight condition as a result from lack of exercise.  Birds have wings and they’re designed to fly. But, we must be responsible with companion birds and their flying exercise regiments.  And, a quality made flight harness is just the tool required for responsible flying.

The least stressful way of adapting a bird to a flight harness is to start them out as babies.  At HARI, we introduce the flight harness at a very young age-before the chicks even have feathers. This desensitizes the chick to a foreign item. Simultaneously, we continue offer towel cradling, nutritional support, as well as nurturing. This all reassures our chicks that it’s ok!

As the fledgling advances with further lessons in his weaning stages, he will have mastered the idea of ‘getting dressed’ for his flying exercise. Once his wings are grown and he has graduated to advanced levels, HARI staff members spend time with supervised flying regimens.

With proper instructions and guidance, quality flight harnesses are an amazing tool that benefits a companion bird’s physiological and psychological well being.  The mere act of flying burns off extra calories and keep the bird in top physical shape.  There are many other simultaneous brain functions that occur in flying birds that help in behavior situations as well-especially aggression. For further information on the studies of how flying benefits companion birds, we do invite you to download Parrot Life Magazine #5 and read the article “Thinking on the Wing”, by Steve Hartman of The Parrot University at Hartman Aviary.

With the emergence of hand fed babies over the past three decades, the aviculturist or nursery caretaker has focused on nutritional and physical health only. Unfortunately, the lessons that would be considered behavior related or under the responsibility of the new caretaker come too late in the developmental potential of the young parrot chick.  These lessons should be taught at this very limited, yet inquisitive stage that begins with the emergence of feathers.

To insure a fledgling’s success as he transfers from the nest box to his life as a companion or pet, he must learn weaning, grooming, independence, plus other  valuable lessons that will help him to be a companion parrot. It’s critical for their success. And, as mentioned before, the HARI Weaning for success philosophy in raising the Quakers is applied to all species of Psittacines raised for companion lifestyle at HARI.

Before we get to the next lesson, it might be helpful for the human caretaker to take a moment to view a foreshadowing of future lessons. Take a look at the Primary  Lessons  Check List used at HARI.

And, if you’re still not sure how critical this aspect of raising a parrot chick is, we invite you to also check out the Episode #49 of Wing N Things at Pet Life Radio. HARI facility manager, Josee Bermingham, explains the Theory and Philosophy of HARI’s “Seizing the Moment” with Avian Enrichment Specialist, Robin Shewokis.

In addition to learning to eat a nutritious diet, further lessons include towel training, basic commands such as “step up and step down”-particularly useful in daily weighing on scales adapted with perches. Quaker fledglings learn to enjoy daily misting, flight harness introduction, independent foraging and more.

Why? The moment to offer guidance to these Quaker chicks begins with the pre-fledgling stage and the Nursery caretaker must take advantage of this limited to time span as the chick grows physically and mentally. If baby parrots are started on these life skills at an early age, they will transition into companion lifestyle with greater success.  This is good for the future human companion and excellent for the Quaker!

Let’s start with the Towel Training:

Towel training is simply getting the Quaker accustomed to the touch of a towel-which perpetuates into further life lessons.   The towel is introduced at an early stage for HARI Quaker chicks, usually at the Early Pin Feather Stage.  A warm wet towel can be applied to a pre-fledgling during the emergence of back and wing feathers.  This exercise in desensitizing the chick with the touch of the towel softens the feather shaft to soften the emerging feathers and promote easier preening, a skill that is traditionally taught by the parent bird. This soothing ritual will gradually be replaced with a dry towel as the chick ages. This can also be viewed upon as towel cradling.

At this same stage in weaning, Quakers chicks are introduced to the flight harness. Daily inspection of the chick’s body and preening session can be combined with the placement of the harness despite the fact it serves no purpose at this age as the chicks are not yet flighted.

Nutritional guidance coincides with each life lesson as the nursery caretaker nurtures the pre-fledgling with soft praises and simultaneously offers Tropican High Performance to the chicks while introducing new skills.

Weight

Monitoring the weight of youngsters in the weaning process is a very important tool in determining weaning success. Quaker fledglings should be weighed daily until you are confident that they have successfully weaned. The weight monitoring can then be done every second day. Most baby parrot species should have a 10% daily weight gain until they reach a “plateau-level stage” which usually coincides with the emergence of the pin feathers. Once the “plateau” is reached the chick will usually maintain his weight or lose a few grams from then throughout the end of the weaning stage. The allowable weight loss should be no more than 10% of the “plateau” weight by the end of the weaning process. It is critical to be especially attentive to the weight loss, as too much loss can be indication of unintentional starvation weaning.

Introduction to the Weaning Stages

Syringe feeding continues as spoon-feeding is introduced. At this point the fledgling’s crop has reached its maximum potential and will now decrease in size.

Quaker chicks are syringe fed exclusively with the Tropican Hand Feeding Formula until approximately 5 weeks of age.  At this time gradual introduction of soaked Tropican High Peformance Granules will start to replace the hand feeding formula, spoon fed a few times a day with a following small quantity of syringe fed hand feeding formula. Abundance weaning is recommended; chicks thrive best when syringe fed prior to spoon-feeding of the soaked, warm weaning granules. A chick will regress if it is too hungry, or fed a diet lacking in the optimum fat content. A record of each chick’s progress is monitored by nursery technicians and noted in the Weaning Chart

Pre-fledglings will become increasingly inquisitive nearing their fifth week of age. It is most important to take advantage of this very narrow window of opportunity of curiosity when the pre-fledgling is starting to mnove around and explore the nest substrate to offer a a small bowl of dry Tropican High Performance Granules in their baby pens. As the pre-fledgling is not agile enough to allow climbing or perching, food must be placed in a stable dish on the nest substrate. (note: substrate should never be corncob granules as these are easily ingested and are a playground for yeast infection). Pre-fledglings at this stage should be spending most of their time sleeping, nibbling on dry granules or preening other clutch mates. There should be no toys to distract them from the essentials. The chick pet is covered with blanket top and 3 sides to encourage exploration within the cage.

It is important for the young chicks to start digesting more solid food to prevent the GI tract from becoming lazy. Soaked granules enhance the tonus and motility of the young bird’s crop and should ideally be of the same formulation as the hand feeding diet at this age, a high performance formula.

Weaning Cage Food Set Up

The Weaning Cage only contains Tropican and occasional spray millet to encourage limited independent foraging. The importance of stimulating their young minds at this age must not be overshadowed. Fledglings that are offered over stimulation in the way toys, excessive foods, lose their focus on weaning which can lead to dietary problems in their future. Many nursery caregivers often make the mistake of offering an assortment of foods that do not meet the fledgling’s still developing needs. There is plenty of time after the fledgling has weaned and learned to eat a nutritiously sound diet to then experiment and try other foods such as fruits and vegetables.

We recommend that all feedings be done in the weaning cages, as this will facilitate the successful weaning process. Young birds must understand that food comes from within the cage.

Who can resist the robust, “big parrot-trapped in a small body” personality of a Quaker? Also known as monk parakeets, Quakers are one of the most popular parrot species for companion lifestyle.

While the HARI flock includes many parrot species, the collection includes this ever popular companion species, the Quaker parakeet. HARI Staff  explains the “HARI way” on weaning and educating the owner so they are well adjusted for companion bird lifestyle.

Quakers: Weaning for Success

At HARI, Quaker chicks are typically pulled from the nest at 2-3 weeks of age. A Chick Information File and Chick Growth Chart is set up for each baby. Health is assessed with a physical exam, initial weight monitoring, and logged into the chick’s file. And, it is this critical stage that Quaker chicks begin their “education” process!  In the next coming weeks, the pupils are introduced to many skills such as towel training, technician handling that includes: grooming, observation of choanal papillae, behavior and more.  But, their first lesson, and most critical for long healthy life, is the weaning process.

Initially, fledgling Quakers are housed in a brooder with clutchmates.  To assimilate the sense of security of their nest box, the brooder is kept dark and covered.  They will soon be ready to make a transition to their weaning cage.

Weaning cages should be well thought out with a very specific set up to make the weaning process as easy and as rapidly successful as possible. A weaning cage can also be the Night Cage for fledglings, as both should not have toys, only perches and food. For a nighttime cage, or “sleep cage” we recommend that toys should not be included to avoid hazardous accidents not to be discovered until the morning. Weaning cages, however, should not have toys for entirely different reasons. When fledglings are weaning their inquisitive minds need to be stimulated with food and nothing else as it is too easy for them to be distracted. Instead of toys the cage should contain several food bowls.

You can sometimes add a plastic or cardboard hut to give a hiding place to the Quakers, but this should be used with caution as they may become aggressive when provided with these shelters. We do suggest though that three sides of the cage be covered with blankets or towels during the day, and that all four sides should be covered at night. This will maintain focus and allow for the birds to sleep. Smaller cages are also better for weaning as it will help minimize distractions. We have had failures based on the size of some of the cages we have placed weaning birds into. A cage with too many toys or a variety of foods distracts the fledglings from the main focus of weaning onto a desired nutritional food,   As the birds get older and are maintaining a proper weight they can then go in bigger cages, or Day Cage, where toys and foraging activities are encouraged.

The success of one method over the other depends on the number of birds, the compliance level of the owner, and most importantly, the consistency of the caretaker. Usually a diet change is necessary to prevent malnutrition in parrots, and a veterinarian is usually the instrumental party to a bird’s diet change. Here are some suggestions to get your birds on a healthier diet!

A simple and safe way to convert most pets to a better diet is to start by cleaning the cage each evening, and leaving ONLY Tropican in the feeders (you may sprinkle some on the floor or place a small dish on the floor as well). The following day (usually mid morning to start with), add some of the birds regular food on top of the Tropican. Birds that like fruits and vegetables should have the dry Tropican sprinkled right in with favorite items such as oranges and fresh cut corn. Some birds will start on this moistened form more easily. Sprinkling seed kernel such as shelled sunflower on Tropican will also help some parrots get the idea (i.e. you don’t have to take a shell off all foods!).

Every evening, all of the remaining food should be removed and replaced with fresh Tropican. Seed may be added later on the following day. (As long as seed is provided sooner or later each day, safety is maintained). Most birds are powerfully motivated to search for food each morning and sample Tropican within a few days. You can tell when your pet is eating the new food as their droppings will become a paler color and Tropican will usually be found in the water dish.

Once your pet is eating the Tropican well, keep seed OUT of the cage. Seed can still be given of course, but as a treat fed by hand. Feeding high water content items such as oranges, fresh corn, green peppers, spinach, broccoli, and berries will not unbalance the Tropican diet significantly as the majority of calories will still be taken in from Tropican.

Your bird is sure to enjoy an improvement in feather quality and overall health on such a modern diet. Just ask your pet retailer or avian veterinarian!

Every Other Day Method

Since birds are creatures of habit, they will usually look to their dish for their favorite foods. The owner should place only the new diet, Tropican, in that very dish. In a separate dish, on alternate days, offer the old diet. Always keep Tropican in the bird’s regular food dish. Once the bird is accustomed to the Tropican and the owner can observe the bird consuming the Tropican, the old diet can then be given every two days, then every three days and so on. This method of conversion usually takes about two weeks. If the attempt to convert a bird to Tropican fails, continue with the old diet for two weeks, then repeat “The Every Other Day” method. Even the most resistant bird usually converts after the second attempt. The main thing to remember with this method is to never mix the seed with the Tropican. This promotes picky eating. Once the bird is successfully converted, then the old diet, most commonly a seed mixture, can be offered as a treat or as an incentive for behavior modification.

Flock Conversion

This method of diet conversion plays into the natural instinct of a flock of birds’ desire to survive. A “flock” can be an entire aviary or it can consist of a multiple bird household. Parrots in the wild will eat together. If one bird finds food, he usually calls out to the others and they share food. If a bird chooses not to eat in this situation, he is usually sick and he will not survive. While our domestic pets may be a generation or two removed from this actual behavior, the instinct is still there. Pets or breeders do not have to see each other eat, but they should know that others in the “flock” are eating and they will all soon eat. The caretaker should feed Tropican to everyone in the “flock” at the same time. Offer only Tropican. Out of curiosity, one or two members of the “flock” will pick at the new food while others may show some resistance. In most cases, the ones who start eating it will send vocal signs of eating, and the others will follow. “The Every Other Day” method can also be used with this method of conversion.The caretaker needs to observe the resistant members for signs of starvation. In an aviary situation, this might be a bit more challenging depending on how the birds are housed.

Tropi-Mix Method

For birds that are resistant to above mentioned conversion methods, try moistened Tropi-Mix.  (1 part Tropi-Mix to equal part hot water)  The hot water softens the fruit, corn, legumes, and most importantly, softens the Tropican morsels in the Tropi-Mix.  The softened Tropican coats your bird’s favorite seeds with the nutty Tropican flavor, therefore the bird becomes better accustomed to the flavor.  Since all of the nuts and seeds in Tropi-Mix are already hulled, this can help break the bird’s habit of hulling seeds.  Be sure to remove moisten food from your bird’s cage after one hour. As your bird eats more of this mix, add a higher ratio of Tropican to Tropimix for ultimate nutrition!

Enrich and Forage

This method plays into the instincts of most parrot species and can even be used in combination with Flock Method.

Place a morsel of Tropican, dependant on the size in appropriately sized foraging toy, such as a puzzle box, or Living World Learning Block center. Most parrots natural curiosity takes over!

Keep in mind that not all species forage in the same manner. Cockatiels, and often African Greys, for instance, are ground foragers. If such is the case, have a table top tray with various items that are bird safe; toy pieces, appropriate size stones, and sprinkle Tropican in the mix. As your bird investigates the items on the tray, he’ll soon find something edible-the Tropican! Often when our parrots work at getting their dinner, they embrace that morsel even more!

Welcome to the Avian First Aid segment! We will be featuring some of HARI’s suggested components of an avian first aid kit arsenal-with a first look at Aloe Vera and its uses with our avian companions. Parrot Life Magazine, Vol. 2 (PDF) features the article in full along with helpful charts on using Aloe Vera with Avian Conditions.

Aloe Vera By Josee Bermingham, AHT

Underutilized here in North America there are convincing reports, trials and research that confirm its potential for use as a safe and non-toxic remedy. In my entourage, people are aware of the topical gel’s therapeutic effect on burns, yet very few are familiar with the tonic drink and gel as a natural remedy for many other ailments. Its secrets have yet to be revealed in the avian medical community as well. Over-the-counter, non-toxic and inexpensive, it’s readily available, especially if you keep a plant at home and at the cottage in case of emergency! The history of Aloe Vera for centuries used by civilizations throughout the world is fascinating.

The oldest documented usage of this plant dates back to 1550 B.C in the Egyptian Book of Remedies. It was an Egyptian tradition to offer this plant at a funeral ceremony to accompany the Pharaoh to his last rest in the Valley of the Kings. A reference in the Bible claims that this plant was cultivated by God to give men a means of healing themselves.  “Aloe Vera Myth or Medicine?” provides some additional information pertaining to its properties, research, and different usage by humans and animals alike.  This miraculous plant should definitely be part of every avian first aid kit.

Some claim it has fabled medicinal properties. Yet according to Dr. Peter Atherton, “Evidence of its therapeutic power dating back to 70-90 AD; Kings and Queens, Pharaohs, Indian, Chinese, Greeks Romans alike have used this miraculous plant for therapeutic armory.” Dr. Peter Atherton’s recent book THE ESSENTIAL ALOE VERA can be purchased from Mill Enterprises. I recommend its uses as a complementary or alternative medicine especially when other known therapies have failed to be effective, or a natural remedy with no known toxic effects are preferred to use.

Recommended Avian Dosages

• Aloe Vera Gel can be offered in a small cup. Many birds readily enjoy this.
• Oral dosage: have your avian veterinarian evaluate this dosage with you based on your pet’s weight
• Topical Spray: 1 part pure Aloe Vera Juice to 3 parts water. Rinse with water in a few hours later.
• Wounds and bits: apply open section of mature plant and wrap as a band aid under bandage
• Nasal flush: 1 mil pure get in 10 ml lactated ringer’s solution.

Caution: Despite its extremely safe usage it is advisable to discuss and advise your avian veterinarian, nonetheless!

Myth, reality and its undeniable therapeutic powers to relieve numerous health conditions are amongst its virtues. However, do not consider this a miraculous therapeutic agent for all illnesses that have not been medically evaluated. Should diarrhea, apparent discomfort or adverse reaction occur, discontinue its use immediately. Aloe Vera is not a permanent cure for arthritis, inflammation and immune system deficiency. Symptoms suppressed by this treatment will often return once the oral gel is no longer given.

What is choanal papillae?

When your avian veterinarian examines your bird, one of the first things he or she will inspect is the condition of your bird’s choanal papillae, as this is a fool proof indicator of the bird’s nutritional profile and health. HARI technicians routinely inspect each HARI bird’s choanal papillae. Health monitoring of the HARI flock is an ongoing concern to as part of the research studies in our Tropican products. The HARI flock serves as our quality control testing subjects for each batch of Tropican product produced.  Is this something avian caretakers can do? YOU BET!

“Choanal papillae”  as defined by Avian Medicine: Principles and Applications, Ritchie, B.W., Harrison, G.J. and Harrison, L.R., Winger Publishing, Inc. Lake Worth, Florida, USA, 1994, p. 344-

“The choanal slit is visible as a median “V”-shaped cleft in the palate. There is species variation in the width of the choanal borders.  In pigeons and most raptors, the choana is slit-shaped. In the parrot the borders are more widely spaced, forming a distinct “V” shape. The borders of the choanal slit are lined with sensory papillae.”

In laymen terms: Healthy-sharp, pointed projecting from the choanal borders are characteristic of a sufficient vitamin A assimilation.

On the contrary: The presence of “blunted” shorter, rounded or change in coloration (ex: from a normal black for certain species to a whitish blunted tip) or absence of these papillae altogether is indicative of a lack of vitamin A assimilation.

In our experience, at the HARI facility, chicks can be examined for these choanal papillae at a few weeks of age. Monitoring choanal papillae is part of every health exam performed on our breeding colony, juveniles and chicks.

Hypovitaminosis can reveal other health issues, require an evaluation of the diet offered and actually consumed… i.e caretakers are offering cafeteria style feeding and the healthy extruded granules are not eaten in sufficient amount to ensure optimum nutrient balance.

Individuals birds challenged with obesity, also in our experience, have a tendency to prevent optimum assimilation of vitamins such as Vitamin A.  Monitoring these in your companion bird can be part of your active role as a responsible & proactive caretaker. We encourage you to ask your avian veterinarian to guide you in this routine inspection. And, if you can get a photo of your bird’s choanal papillae, we challenge you to post! Submissions should include species, age, and diet.